Despite the steady traffic to and from its coastal resorts, Spain has remained in the eyes of outsiders a mysterious, half-mythical country. The Spaniards who are best known to the world are fictional characters: Don Juan, Don Quixote and Carmen. Fiestas and flamenco are alluring not only for their flamboyance but also for their undeniable exoticism, with influences from outside Europe. Spain's isolation from the rest of Europe began with her peninsular geography and is underscored by history: 700 years of Moorish occupation were followed by a powerful empire that colonised the New World, the failure of which led via civil war to the oppressive regime of General Franco. But as the traveller who sets out across Spain will discover, hundreds of years of solitude have created a country that is anything but homogeneous. Spaniards have traditionally spoken of their land as Las Españas; a notion of plurality embracing four languages and seven dialects and climates ranging from the subtropical south, sweet with its carob and hibiscus, to the emerald north, with its gorse and heather and plunging fjords. Spain has a couple of constants. One is light: the sunshine northern Europeans flock to bask in, the burnished red-gold that suffuses whole cities, the lunar contrasts of sun and shadow, the light El Greco, Velázquez and Picasso saw and painted by. The other is a tremendous vitality, ubiquitous as the light, which is observed in cafés and strolling Sunday evening crowds, in haughty urbanites and exuberant festival dancers, or in the dignified courtesy of a stranger on a country road, who offers to share his lunch with you and enquires after your family. Of all the Spains you encounter on your Spanish sojourn, surely the most striking and intoxicating is the "new Spain" of post-Francoism: proud parent of a young democracy, ambitious member of the European Union, a Spain that in just a couple of decades has become an outrageous artist, uncensored journalist, idealistic politician, stage for world events and voracious consumer of news and culture. This Spain is joyfully dispelling a few of the darker old myths, and has given a celebratory glow to the landscapes that await you.

VITAL STATISTICS

Population:39 million Area:504,880 sq. km (194, 885 sq miles) Capital: Madrid Language:Spanish (Castilian), plus Catalan, Basque and Galician Religion: Roman Catholic Time Zones: Northern Spain: GMT +1 hour (winter), +2 hours (summer); EST +5 hours (winter), +6 hours (summer). Southern Spain: GMT +1 hour (as above) except for Canary Islands that use GMT Currency: Peseta, until the introduction of the Euro in January 2002 Electricity: 220 volts Weights and Measures: Metric International Dialling Codes: +34

GEOGRAPHY

The territory covered by Spain's 50 provinces is vast. The mainland can be divided into four main climatic zones. The arid central plateau, or meseta, ranges from 600-1,000 metres (2,000-3,000 ft) high. The northern meseta, the Castilla y León region, is dominated by cereal crops, while the southern meseta, Madrid, Castilla-La Mancha and Extremadura, also features olive groves and vineyards, and, in Extremadura, sheep-grazing. The city of Madrid is the highest capital city in Europe (650 metres/2,130 ft), sitting in a dish in the central Iberian plateau, flanked to the north and east by the sierras of Somosierra and Guadarrama, and to the southeast by those of Toledo.

CLIMATE

Spain's climatic zones ranges from the snow-peaked Pyrenees and the Sierra Nevada to the sun-baked semi-desert of the high central plain. Northern Spain There is a great deal of climatic variation in Northern Spain, (both regionally and seasonally). Green Spain, which stretches from the Basque country along the Atlantic seaboard through Cantabria and Asturias to Galicia, is obviously named because it rains a lot, so take waterproofs, umbrellas and suitable footwear - even in summer. Bilbao and Santiago are renowned for being very rainy and the pasture-clad hills are often swathed in mist. Winters in the north and northwest can be very wet, and it may snow. Summers, on the contrary, have lavish measures of sunshine and warmth everywhere, increasing in intensity as you travel inland and cross the mountains of the Cordillera Cantabrica. The north is, therefore, an ideal destination for a summer beach holiday. There are hundreds of beautiful coves and beaches (many sheltered and backed by green fields), as well as seaside resorts that have long been popular among Spaniards in the hot season. Central Spain The climate in Central Spain is continental, with baking hot summers and cold winters. The southern Meseta is also exceedingly dry; Madrid has a relatively temperate climate. In autumn and spring, both extremely pleasant seasons, average temperatures range from 12-15°C (54-60°F), with a spread of 6°C (43°F) minimum, to 21°C (70°F) maximum. Summer and winter are more extreme. In summer, the temperature rises as high as 40°C (104°F), although mountain breezes can make the evenings slightly cooler. The average winter temperature is 5°C (41°F), although it can drop below 0°C (32°F) in January, the most unsettled month of the year. You'll need to bring your winter coat and although it does not rain often (with an annual rainfall of about 438mm per year), the wettest months are January-April. Eastern Spain Catalonia has a climate as varied as its geography. In Andorra and the Pyrenees the temperature can drop to below freezing in winter. In the north of the Costa Brava winds whip up apparently out of nowhere and last for several days. But a little further south the climate is more reliable, with little rain in summer. The average temperature in coastal resorts is 25°C (77°F) in summer and 11°C (52°F) in winter. Inland it can be much hotter and spring and autumn may be preferred by visitors. Southern Spain Andalusia's position at the southern edge of Europe gives it a privileged climate. Summers are hot and winters generally mild. However, there are considerable variations due to the size of the region, its mountainous character and the fact that it is bordered by both the Atlantic and Mediterranean. Summers can be extremely hot in the interior, with temperatures rising to 45°C (113°F) and even higher in the provinces of Seville and Cordoba. Almeria has an extremely arid, desert-like climate. Snow covers the Sierra Nevada from November to June and frost is common in upland areas. The Levante wind has considerable influence, often blowing hard for days on the Cadiz coast and creating a persistent cloud over the Rock of Gibraltar. June to October are usually dry months, except for sporadic torrential downpours. Heavy rain in the winter months is usually interspersed with brilliant sunshine. The best months to tour the region are in spring and autumn. The Canary Islands The major islands of the archipelago enjoy a subtropical climate and mild temperaturs all year round. Winter/summer temperatures range on average from 17-23°C (64-74°F) in Tenerife, or 16-22°C (62-72°F) in Gran Canaria. The more mountainous zones on Tenerife, La Palma and Gran Canaria result in abundant rain in winter, which is responsible for the lush landscape, in direct contrast to the other drier and more desert-like islands. The Balearic Islands The three main islands have more or less the same weather conditions, with local variations caused by phenomena such as Mallorca's high mountain ranges. The Balearics' average high temperature is 21.2°C (70°F), average low 13.8°C (57°F), and the sun shines annually to an average 59 percent. Rainfall in Mahon, Menorca, is 580mm (23 inches) a year, while that in Palma, Mallorca, only reaches 480mm (19 inches).

PEOPLE

There are marked differences between people from the north, the south, the east and the centre. It has often been said that the Spanish nation is a myth, a dream of politicians and ideologues. Tourism officials coined a phrase that sums up the varied climates, landscapes and types: "Spain, everything under the sun". Fun in Spain goes hand in hand with being in a large, noisy crowd. For many reasons, the main one being the sunny weather, which keeps everyone outdoors for most of the year, gregariousness is the norm. The larger the gathering, the larger the potential audience and the potential for showing off. Naturally, there is a fair amount of boasting, but the pillar of Spanish joie de vivre is an internal self-sufficiency that needs no material support. It is expressed through wit, grandiloquence, appearance, courtesy, generosity and pride.

HIGHLIGHTS

Madrid The highest capital in Europe, Madrid is also the centre of Spanish Art. Don't miss the country's greatest masters at the Museo del Prado's new showcase for modern art, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofía. Toledo La Mancha's capital is Spain's cultural heart and the religious seat of the nation. The entire old city is a national monument and listed as part of the UN's World Heritage. Seville Spain's fourth largest city, Andalusia's capital is dazzling. Here is the setting for Byron's Don Juan, Bizet's Carmen, and Rossini's barber. Magellan began his circumnavigation here in 1519 and Columbus brought back the gold for the cross on Seville's Cathedral, the third largest in the world. Granada Overlooked by the Alhambra, proclaimed one of the unofficial wonders of the world, is the epitome of Moorish imagination and artistry in Andalusia, the consummate expression of a sophisticated culture and a bridge between the Oriental and Western minds. Valencia Just 3 km (2 miles) from the Mediterranean, Valencia straddles the Río Turia. Famed for its ceramics, the Palacio de Marqués de Dos Aguas houses the Museo Nacional de Cerámica. The City of Arts and Sciences, designed by Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava, consists of an omnimax cinema, a performing arts hall, a science museum and an oceanographic park. Barcelona Home to both Castilian Spanish and Catalan speakers, this cosmopolitan city seems as close to Paris and Rome as it is to Madrid. The architect Antoni Gaudí i Cornet left his mark here with revolutionary Art Nouveau buildings. San Sebastián One of the most beautiful resorts in Europe: this city, close to the French border in northeastern Spain, is elegant and cosmopolitan, especially during the jazz and film festivals. Bilbao Home of the stunning new Museo Guggenheim de Arte Contemporáneo, designed by the Californian architect Frank O. Gehry, the northern city of Bilbao is a city for art lovers.

FESTIVALS & MAJOR EVENTS

There are numerous colourful national and local festivals celebrated all around Spain, especially in spring and early summer. Concerts and recitals can be enjoyed throughout the year in Madrid. The Teatro Real reopened recently after many years of renovations and is now on a par with all the major opera houses in Europe. There are several festivals which feature visiting theatre and dance companies and orchestras - the main ones are Veranos de la Villa (music festival, July-mid-Sept), Festival de Otoño (theatre and dance festival, October) and Festival Mozart (classical music, June-July). Important events through the year include: January Epiphany: The three Kings arrive by boat, by camel or even helicopter; festivities in towns all around Spain. February Carnival: on Shrove Tuesday, celebrated everywhere. Cádiz city hosts one of Spain's best Carnival celebrations. March/April Semana Santa: Holy Week, religious processions in most towns. St George's Day, Sant Jordi: 23 April, day of books and roses - lovers' day (Catalonia only). Running of bulls in Vejer de la Frontera and Arcos de la Frontera. The fallas, Valencia: on 19 March, the streets, plazas and balconies fill up with citizens, tourists and - most importantly - firemen, as colourful papier-mâché figures are put to the match, so that at midnight the entire city, illuminated with an orange glow, appears to be burning down. May Corpus Christi: flower carpets and other religious celebrations, late May and early June. Horse Fair, Jerez: display of horses and horsemanship. June St John's Eve: 23 June, bonfires and other pyrotechnics. International Festival of Music and Dance, Granada. One of Spain's leading festivals offers a varied programme of music and dance by national and international companies. Concerts in the Auditorio Manuel de Falla and the Palacio Carlos V in the Alhambra, dance in the Generalife. July Fiesta del Carmen: The fishermen's feast day on 15-16 July is celebrated at ports. September Vendimia: the wine harvest festivals are in mid-September. Verge Mercè festival: 24 September, Barcelona's biggest festival. Fiesta de Otoño (Autumn Festival), Jerez, including Sherry harvest festival. The best flamenco to be found is in the festivals and contests held between the end of June and the middle of September in small towns - there's one, or more, every Saturday, in Andalusia. The best known are the Potaje in Utrera (Seville) at the end of June, La Caracolá in Lebrija (Seville) in mid-July, the festival in Mairena del Alcor (Seville) at the beginning of September, and Fiesta de la Bulería held in the Jerez bullring in mid-September. The bullfighting season lasts from mid-March to mid-October.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS

1 January 6 January (Epiphany) 19 March (Saint Joseph; Father's Day) Good Friday 1 May (Labour Day) 15 August (Assumption Day) 12 October (Columbus Day or Día de la Hispanidad) 1 November (All Saint's Day) 6 December (Constitution) 8 December (Immaculate Conception) 25 December (Christmas Day) Each town is also entitled to two local holidays in honour of its patron saints. Madrid celebrates 2 May, Fiesta de la Comunidad de Madrid, 15 May, Día de San Isidro, and 9 November, Día de la Almudena.

GETTING THERE

By Air Madrid's Barajas airport is just 16 km (10 miles) out of the city. Many airlines fly directly to the UK and the United States. Southern Spain has frequent air links with the rest of Europe and North Africa, as well as direct flights to North America. The colossal growth of the Costa del Sol tourist industry has converted Málaga into Spain's sixth busiest airport, with 8 million passenger arrivals annually. The Canary Islands are served by the main airlines; direct flights from Madrid take about two hours. Most planes land at the airports of Las Palmas, Gran Canaria or Reina Sofía, Tenerife. The Balearic islands of Mallorca, Menorca and Ibiza, off the eastern coast of Spain, are served regularly by both scheduled international and charter flights. Scheduled services operate from several Spanish mainland cities. The renovated and enlarged Son Sant Joan airport in Mallorca caters to the millions of year-round visitors. By Sea Few liners call at Southern Spanish ports, apart from those on cruises. There are frequent ferry services across the Straits of Gibraltar from Algeciras to Ceuta and Tangier. From the UK, ferries operates from Plymouth to Santander, Cantabria (24 hours' sailing time) from March-November; from Poole to Santander (28 hours); Portsmouth to Santander (30 hours) from November-March; and Portsmouth to Bilbao all year-round. Services by sea to the Balearic Islands are provided by convenient ferry routes, primarily from Barcelona and Valencia. Visitors to Formentera, must make their connections in Eivissa (Ibiza) from where frequent ferries, including car ferries, cross to the port of La Sabina. In summer, there are also services to Alcudia, in Mallorca. Ferries operate from Alicante and Denia to Eivissa and Formentera. There are also inter-island ferries, and a fast hydro-jet. By Road There are numerous road crossings along the borders with France and Portugal. The Autopista del Mediterráneo (toll) runs all the way from the French border at La Junquera along the coast to Alicante: from there, four lane freeways take travellers direct to Almería or to Granada and Seville. Madrid is also connected by a four-lane freeway to Seville (via Bailén and Córdoba) and Málaga (via Jaén and Granada). Roads through the Pyrenees and the Cordillera Cantábrica often make travel slow. An international bridge across the Guadíana river at Ayamonte was completed in 1991, allowing easy access to Andalusia from Portugal's Algarve coast. By Rail The main rail crossing points from France to Spain are Portbou on the Mediterranean coast and Irún at the Atlantic end of the Pyrenees (the line continues to Bilbao with serpentine branches to Pamplona, Vitoria-Gasteiz and Logroño). There is also a rail crossing at La Tour de Carol and Puigcerdà, a little to the east of Andorra (the line continuing on to Barcelona).

GETTING AROUND

By Air No point on mainland Spain is more than 55 minutes' flying time from Madrid, although travelling to and from airports can be quite time-consuming in the big cities. Flight information and reservations: Serviberia , tel: (91) 400 500. By Train RENFE is the state-owned Spanish railway system. Spanish trains have two classes: First (Primera or 1ª) and Second (Segunda or 2ª), and a variety of other categories which do vary in terms of comfort. The AVE is Spain's finest rail experience, whisking you from Madrid to Córdoba or Seville in less than three hours. The Talgo is a fast, comfortable train with video entertainment; the TERS and Electrotrens also have similar entertainment. Expresos are night trains, on which a cama (small, private compartment) is usually available or an inexpensive litera (a couchette in a shared compartment). The Rápidos are local day trains, which should be avoided other than for short trips. RENFE information and bookings, tel: (91) 328 9020; IBERAIL general train timetable information, tel: (91) 571 6692. By Car Foreign motorists in Spain must have either an international driving licence or a valid licence from their country of origin, the car's registration papers and valid insurance. Those who are not nationals of a European Community country will also require a Green Card, which can be purchased at the border. Spain has 317,000 km (195,850 miles) of highway but only a few thousand kilometres are fast, convenient and relatively safe motorways. Toll fees are payable on the modern motorways. The speed limit is 120kph (75mph) on motorways, 100kph (60mph) on all other roads and 60kph (35mph) going through cities and towns. The driver and all passengers must wear seatbelts, and the car should be equipped with a spare set of head and rear-light bulbs or you could face a penalty fine. To rent a car in Spain you have to be at least 19 years of age with either an international licence or a valid licence from your own country. By Bus Bus travel in Spain has improved considerably. Buses covering the inter-city routes are air-conditioned, with video entertainment to pass the time and sometimes restrooms. Buses may take longer but are cheaper than trains. They make frequent stops at rest areas, giving passengers a chance to eat something and stretch their legs. Madrid central bus station (Estacion Sur de Autobuses), information, tel: (91) 468 4511/ 468 4200.

ACCOMMODATION

Spain has accommodation to meet every need and wallet. Hotels are classified in five categories, reflected in the number of stars they have been awarded. Hoteles-residencias are also classified according to quality and services. These do not have a restaurant, but often have bar and cafeteria facilities. Hostales are more modest, and classified according to only 1, 2 or 3 stars. Pensiones or guesthouses are also useful for those on limited budgets. Most pensiones are run by a family. Rooms can be rented with home cooking included, and there is usually a family room that is shared with the other guests for watching television or reading. An official notice should be posted behind the door, indicating the daily price of the room, although the rate can vary according to season. Breakfast is not included in the room rate and is often continental: coffee, tea or hot chocolate with toast or buns. Remember that 7 percent 'IVA' (VAT) will be added to your bill, except for those of the Grand Luxury category, which charge 15 percent VAT. Paradores (state-run inns) are usually housed in castles and palaces, converted into charming and luxurious hotels at affordable prices. Another increasingly popular idea for longer stays is to rent a furnished

apartment. Reservations at paradores, tel: (91) 516 6666. WHAT TO EAT

Spaniards tend to have a light breakfast before going to work and then a coffee break at mid-morning when they indulge in pastries, churros (fried dough rings) or a pincho de tortilla (a wedge of potato omelette served with crusty bread). One o'clock is aperitivo time, when a vast array of tapas - delicacies designed to please the palate and as the ideal accompanyment to wine, beer or fino (dry sherry) - are laid out along the bar counters. The main meal of the day is usually a hearty, three-course lunch, served between 2 and 4pm, while dinner is light and eaten after 9.30pm. In addition to restaurantes, there are bares, or all-purpose drinking establishments, where one can order anything from a coffee or a coke to a whisky and a bocadillo (a sandwich made with crusty fresh bread) or a mesones, a sandwich (on toasted white bread). The culinary impact of Spain's Muslim era is most apparent in a crescent-shaped area swinging south through Valencia, Murcia and Andalusia. Here you will find honey and almond pastries, cumin and aniseed spiced breads, and a vast family of rice dishes and cooling sherbets (granizadas). While each region has its own impressive speciality dishes, Basque cooking is superlative, and there are clusters of Michelin-starred restaurants in San Sebastián (Donostia) and Bilbao (Viscaya). In fact, such is the reputation of Basque chefs that you will find them running the kitchens of top restaurants throughout the whole of Spain. In modern times, Spanish wine has improved dramatically in quality but remains very good value. The country is particularly proud of its Riojas from the north, the different varieties of sherry from Jerez, and the champagnes or cavas (sparkling wines) from Catalonia. Inexpensively priced, ordinary table wines from the around the regions can also be pleasant. The country also has an interesting selection of after-dinner drinks: the famous anisette of Chinchón, pacharán of the Basque country, Galicia's herbal aguardientes, and assorted eaux de vie and ponches from diverse regions of the country.

DOS & DON'TS

Service is not usually included in restaurants, so it is customary to leave the spare change (50 cent or 1 Euro coins) in the dish when eating at a modest restaurant and a few cents (5 or 20s) at a bar. When dining at an average smart restaurant, 10 percent of the bill is appropriate, unless you're charged for service. A 50 cent tip is fine for an average taxi ride, and bathroom attendants expect between 25 cents per person. When entering churches and other religious sites you should cover your legs and shoulders.

HEALTH

No special inoculations are required for entering Spain, unless you are visiting from an area where there has been a recent outbreak of cholera or yellow fever. Tap water can be drunk without reservations but bottled water tastes better and is widely available. The phrase "Spanish tummy" can still prove accurate: food hygiene has improved enormously in recent years but you should nevertheless exercise a little caution. In modest establishments avoid seafood on Sunday and Monday (it may not be as fresh as it should be) and be wary too of dishes containing raw egg, such as mayonnaise. In summer, come prepared with a sun hat and protective suncreams. Bring with you any prescription medicine you require. Although Spanish pharmacies are amply stocked and many drugs can be purchased without prescription, your particular medication may not be available. Chemists in Spain do not honour foreign prescriptions.

TELECOMS

The international dialling code for Spain is +34. All telephone numbers in Spain begin with their respective regional code for both local and international calls. Coin and card operated telephone booths are everywhere in Spain. You can also purchase phonecards for 1,000 or 2,000 pesetas at any tobacconists. For overseas calls, privately-run telephone shops are a good option. Although it is convenient to ring from your hotel room, and all top hotels have direct-dialling facilities, you will be charged much more than you would on a public phone - at least 16 percent VAT will be added to the cost of your calls. To make a direct overseas call, first dial 00 and then the country and city codes.

USEFUL CONTACTS

Tourist Information If you want to stock up on information before you leave home, visit the website: www.tourspain.es or contact the following tourist offices: New York: 665 Fifth Avenue, New York, 10022, tel: 212 759 8822/28. Chicago: 845 N. Michigan Avenue, Suite 915, Chicago, Illinois 60611, tel: 312 944 0215/16. Los Angeles: 8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960, 90211 Beverly Hills, California, tel: 213 658 7188/93. Houston: 5085 Westheimer, Suite 4800, 77056 Houston, Texas, tel: 713 840 7412/13. Toronto: 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 201, Toronto M4W 3B8, tel: 416 961 3131. London: 22/23 Manchester Square, London W1M 5AP, tel: 020-7486 8077. Emergency Numbers in Spain National Police, tel: 091 Municipal Police, tel: 092 Emergency Medical Care, tel: 061 Fire Department, tel: 080 Red Cross Emergency, tel: 915-222 222 in Madrid.

CUSTOMS & VISAS

EU countries Visitors require only a valid National Identity Card from their home state to enter Spain. This is the same for citizens of Andorra, Austria, Liechtenstein, Monaco and Switzerland. US citizens, Australians, Canadians and New Zealanders Require a valid passport and are automatically authorised for a three-month stay, which can be renewed for another three. Others Must obtain a visa from the Spanish consulate in their own country before setting off. Customs Visitors can bring the following items into the country duty-free: any personal effects, such as jewellery, a portable typewriter, cameras, film, portable video and sound equipment, musical instruments, sports equipment, camping material, etc., plus reasonable amounts of cigarettes (200 cigarettes, 100 small cigars, 50 cigars and 250g of tobacco), and limited amounts of alcoholic beverages (1 litre of alcohol), perfumes, coffee and tea. If your camera, portable typewriter or whatever is new and you do not have the purchase receipt, it would be wise to ask a Customs official to certify that you brought it into the country with you. Pets may be brought with you as long as you have a suitable Health Certificate for the animal signed by an officially recognised vet from the country of origin, which indicates the dates of the last vaccines and in particular, that of an anti-rabies shot.



MONEY MATTERS

Practically all Spanish banks will change foreign currency and travellers' cheques, for a fee. It is also possible to obtain pesetas in cash at any bank against your Visa or Mastercard credit card. However, visitors should be aware that personal cheques are not readily accepted in shops or other establishments as they are in other countries, even though they may be drawn on local banks. Always carry ID with you when you go to the bank. Banking hours These vary slightly from one bank to another. Most are open 8.30am-2.30pm weekdays, and some are open Saturday until 1pm or on Thursday afternoons until 7.30pm. All are closed on Sunday and holidays. Several banks keep their major branches in the business districts open until 6pm or later.

CRIME & SECURITY

Spain these days is no more dangerous than any other cosmopolitan community, but it is no longer the haven of peace and safety it used to be. A high unemployment rate, an increasingly alarming drug problem and perhaps even freedom from authoritarian rule have changed all this, so it makes sense to take a few elementary precautions. Bag-snatching and pick-pocketing are probably the worst problems, so don't allow yourself to be distracted and take care in crowds and busy tourist areas. Avoid ostentation with money. Keep valuables in the hotel safe and don't carry large sums of money or your passport (take a photocopy instead), unless you are going to exchange money. In the event of being robbed, contact the local Police Station or phone Police Emergency at 091.